Glencolmcille Tower Loop

When researching this trip, we learned about Napoleonic-era signal towers built between 1804 and 1806 in response to the threat of a French invasion. The towers were constructed in remote locations all along the coast of Ireland: from the northern tip of Donegal, down the west coast, around the south, and up the east side to Dublin.  There were originally 80 towers, each within sight of additional towers were visible in both directions, so that flags could be used to quickly communicate over great distances.  In other words, we would have the opportunity to visit a warning beacon of Gondor!  When Erwin discovered that the Glen Head Signal Tower, near Glencolmcille in County Donegal, is part of a marked hiking loop, this became our highest priority thing to do in Donegal.

The map below seemed to indicate starting at the designated intersection in Glencolmcille, but when we arrived, the signs were in Gaelic and there wasn't any obvious parking.  We were a little confused, but decided just to turn around and go back to the tiny little car park we'd passed in town.  Then Erwin decided he wanted to pop into the little shop, so there was a small additional delay.  Finally we set off, and rejoined the official National Looped Walk.  We would be following the blue blazes; there were also red signs, for the longer Drum Loop, which follows much of the same route, but includes an additional section we did not visit.

The first part of the hike follows lightly used public roads and is very flat.  There are views of fields and the coast and the headlands to be climbed. 

Soon the public road is left behind, and the climbing begins, up a dirt farm lane well-populated with sheep.  We quickly had to shed layers as we gained elevation.

It was pretty exciting when we ascended high enough to crest the headland and the tower first came into view!  We continued on, getting closer and closer.

We walked all around the tower, checking it out.  We'd been planning on having lunch here, but couldn't resist some additional exploration first. We continued out along the clifftop to take in the dramatic views of the steep drop and the waves crashing on the rocky shore far below. 

Sturrall Head

I rather fancied trying to get a little closer to Sturrall, but the boys were motivated by lunch and just wanted to go back to the tower, so that's what we did.  I was taking this picture (below) of them munching away in this amazing place, when they were photo-bombed by a sheep (cover image).  I could not have choreographed that better!

After eating, we moved on, leaving the tower to the sheep.  We still had more than half the hike remaining, including some additional climbing. 

looking back toward the tower and Rossan Point beyond

We were in Ireland during a heat wave, and of even greater concern for livestock, a drought.  It was on the front cover of the local newspaper and we definitely observed the parched heather on this hike.

After we'd crested that ridge and walked across the flat top, it was downhill for the rest of the hike, along more of the farm tracks and then back on paved public roads.

roadkill

Initially, this section of paved road wasn't very interesting.  It is twisty and tunnel-like, passing through giant fuchsia hedges and a few residences.  Lines of sight are short and there is little room to get off the road for passing vehicles.  But it soon opens up again and it's hard not to be charmed by views like this...

Plus, more history awaits along the road -- much more ancient history.  Glencolmcille is named after St. Colm Cille, also known as St. Columba, a 6th-century missionary who had a monastic center in the valley.  The Gleann Cholm Cille Turas is a religious procession or journey that incorporates 15 different "stations," which consist of ancient stone monuments, some of which are thought to have been associated with pre-Christian practices.  This Turas began more than a millennium ago.  It leads the pilgrim along a 3.5 mile meandering route up into the hills and down thorough the valley, and is traditionally performed by trekking barefoot, starting just after midnight as June 9th begins.  The pilgrims perform specific prayers and devotions at each station.  It is the oldest such Turas still practiced in Ireland.

We hiked the Tower Loop, as described herein, and not the Glencolmcille Turas.  Some of the stations are on private land, and while the landowners open their land to pilgrims on June 9th, for St. Colm Cille's Feast Day, access to the entire route is not available at other times.  So we did not see all 15 stations, but were thrilled that the Tower Loop included two of the stations with standing stones, thought to date back to somewhere in the 500-700 AD range.  So amazing to reach out and touch these stones that have been of such significance for so long...

Turas Cholm Cille Stad 9 -- labeled on the trail map as "megalithic tomb"

 

just another roadside attraction?  gotta love Ireland!

From here, we continued along the road toward St. Columba's Church, and beyond, where we came across a second standing stone, also part of the Turas. 

Station 2 -- this is labeled "Cross Pillar" on the hiking map

After leaving the second standing stone, it was just a short roadwalk back to our car.  Of course Frankie had to try out the rock throne.  We popped back into the shop for a bit more sundry, ad got Frankie a postcard of the standing stones.  What a neat experience!

MapMyRide tracked this hike at 6.5 miles with 1,150 feet elevation gain.  This is a fantastic hike, with spectacular views abound and interesting multi-faceted history.  We absolutely loved it.  Highly recommended!