Leutascher Geisterklamm: the Spirit Gorge

When researching this trip back home, I had read about a number of gorge hikes in the area: Partnachklamm and Höllentalklamm in the Garmisch-Partenkirchen area, and Leutascher Geisterklamm in Mittenwald.  Apparently the bedrock in the region is karst, which is easily eroded by the snow melt that courses down from the lofty spires of the Bavarian Alps.  The rushing waters carve out deep chasms as the flow into the broad valleys, and suspended limestone sediments make the rivers a gorgeous icy blue.  Erwin is particularly drawn to hikes along water features, so we planned to include one of these gorge hikes.  Since today was to be our last full day in Mittenwald, we decided to spend it locally, choosing Leutascher Geisterklamm.  As with Karwendel, we could walk to this destination directly from our apartment. 

The Geisterklamm is named for the mountain spirit that is thought to dwell in the deepest recesses of the gorge.  The signs suggest this story has been told locally for centuries; apparently some have perceived the spirit to be more malevolent, calling it a ghost (geist) or demon.  Goblins are also supposed to live here: there are trails named for both the spirit and the goblins.  I am honestly a little muddled on the specifics of the story, and the distinctions between the various creatures, but I think the frightening associations with these gorges may have derived from the spooky noises that emanate from within during snowmelt.  Partnachklamm and Höllentalklamm roughly translate to wolf gorge and hell gorge, so there is a theme of darkness and fear connecting all three gorges.  Nevertheless, there is nothing to fear here.  When the trail was developed for public access in 2006, the spirit was branded as a friendly guide to the gorge.

We followed the footpath downhill from our apartment, a familiar route we'd taken into town for dinner most nights, then turned left at the base of the slope to follow the footpath along the river Isar.  This trail took us almost to Innsbrucker Straße, from which this hike starts.  There is no parking whatsoever along this section of Innsbrucker Straße; hikers arriving by vehicle need to park in one of the municipal lots in Mittenwald or start the hike at the other end of the gorge, where parking and other amenities (restrooms, refreshments, etc.) are available at Parkplatz Leutscher Geisterklamm.

the river Isar

the sign along Innsbrucker Straße pointing towards the gorge

The route briefly follows Am Köberl, a lightly trafficked side street, then veers onto another wide, level, gravel-surfaced footpath that runs alongside a pasture and offers views up to the dramatic Karwendel range. 

the looming Karwendel range

This section of trail is short, and the Kiosk Mittenwald concession is quickly reached.  This a small cafe and gift shop; Erwin purchased a drink and I got Frankie a "spirit" toy.  This kiosk is also where inexpensive tickets can be purchased for the short Wasserfallsteig, the only part of this hike for which there is a fee.  Apparently the Waterfall Trail is privately owned.  We thought the 2-euro per person entrance fee was worth it, if only for the shockingly cool temperatures within the narrow gorge that provided welcome relief from the day's smothering heat.

This pool near the entrance to the Wasserfallsteig was full of big, beautiful trout enjoying the icy waters.  They made Erwin hungry. 

The walkways are built onto the walls of the narrow gorge, leading further into the chasm. 

 

After exiting the Wasserfallsteig, we crossed the footbridge over the Leutascher Ache, then began the climb up the Kobaldpfad.  The Goblin Trail climbs a few hundred feet through the woods before reaching Berggasthaus Gletschlerschiff, where we stopped for lunch.  Sadly for Erwin, they did not offer trout, but we enjoyed a fortifying meal on the shaded patio with views toward Karwendel. 

Then we continued up again.  There was a small grassy opening in the woods that offered a window of views, but this section of trail was mostly in the green tunnel.  And unfortunately the trail here is more like a road (still the wide gravel surface) so this section is not terribly interesting.  Stick with it though!  Things definitely improve. 

goofing on a "plain" stretch of trail

We soon reached the treffpunkt with the Klammgeistweg; the Kobaldpfad split off down the hill toward the right.  We continued straight ahead on the Mountain Spirit Gorge Trail.  While this section of trail is also wide and smooth, it offers many stops and diversions that Frankie enjoyed.  

common spotted orchid (Dactylorhiza fuchsii)

When we came to the next intersection, we turned right.  Continuing straight would lead to the Parkplatz in Leutasch, Austria, but we were ready to head downhill and finally enter the main part of the gorge.  After a few more fun stops of course...

first look down into the gorge

This section is the main allure of this hike.  The trail consists of steel walkways and bridges suspended through the gorge, clinging to the rock faces and spanning over the stream.  The wide spaced metal grates allow hikers to look down and the see the rocks and water directly below.  It is fantastic!  And the interactive signage continued, as well.  We all loved this part of the hike! 

Erwin crossing the Höllbrücke

Frankie raced along through this section, eager to find each new Spirit sign.  Then we arrived at the dramatic Panoramabrücke, which is located right at the intersection of the Klammgeistweg and Kobaldpfad.  This bridge is amazing!

Frankie and I on the Panoramabrücke

view from the Panoramabrücke

looking down from the Panoramabrücke

However, we were disappointed to see that the path forward along the Kobaldpfad was closed, which prevented us from completing the fun gorge trail and the loop had planned.  We briefly considered trying to sneak around the fencing blocking the trail, but could hear heavy machinery working up ahead, so knew stealth tactics wouldn't get us far.  Plus, the gorge is obviously very steep and would not be child-friendly except on the walkways.  Instead, we elected to follow the Klammgeistweg over the Panoramabrücke and back up to the original treffpunkt an der grenze (intersection and border crossing).  Yes, border crossing!  We hiked from Germany into Austria and back several times on this adventure.  This was a fun novelty.  

looking up at the closed section of the Kobaldpfad

one of the border crossings - Germany on the right and Austria on the left

From here we retraced our route from the beginning of the hike, down the woods road past Berggasthaus Gletschlerschliff and the entrance to the Wasserfallsteig.  Here, just past the concession, we saw where the Kobaldpfad would have come out.  Of course, it was posted as being closed here as well, but somehow we failed to notice that earlier.  I would definitely recommend the whole loop once it re-opens.  The bridges and walkways in the gorge are the best part of this hike.  

Frankie laughing at a funny no trespassing sign

afternoon light on Karwendel

back on Innsbrucker Straße - note the lack of parking and the signs for the gorge on the right

another map - edited to show our route in green

the track from MapMyHike, showing our walk from our apartment along the river Isar and back through town

MapMyRide tracked this adventure at 6.6 miles with over 900 feet elevation gain.  This was tracked door to door from our apartment, though, so hikers leaving from the Parkplatz or Mittenwald municipal lots would have a shorter walk.  The Leutascher Geisterklamm is an attraction for all ages; hikers small and large will be wowed by the walkways through the gorge, and kids will love all the spirit stops and activities along the way.