April 21, 2018

Observation Point


Observation Point was the hike I was most looking forward to in Zion National Park.  The Narrows and Angels Landing weren't going to happen on this trip, so I made sure to negotiate for Observation Point before we made any reservations.  I wouldn't have been happy coming to Zion and only seeing the valley; it would have been too cruel of a tease.  While plenty of kids hike Angel's Landing, it was not an option for us on this trip, given Erwin's discomfort with exposure.  Frankie is interested in hiking Angel's Landing, of course, and Erwin has conceded that I can take him up when he is older.  However, he wasn't willing to budge on Frankie hiking it at seven years old.  And I agreed that it wasn't necessary on this trip: once Erwin agreed to Observation Point, it just wasn't worth arguing about.  Observation Point is no consolation prize - I was truly excited for this hike. 

Observation Point is significantly higher than Angel's Landing, and looks down on it from above.  At 8 miles roundtrip, with about 2,300 feet elevation gain, this is a real hike, not like the short flat trails we hiked yesterday in the valley.  Plus, the trail itself is potentially more interesting than Angel's Landing, passing through a wider variety of landscapes, including the awesome Echo Canyon.  We wanted to get an early start, as we travel at a slower pace than many and didn't want to feel rushed.  We also liked the idea of hiking up the first set of switchbacks in the shade.  We didn't quite make the first bus, but were in line by 7:20 am.  Frankie was the only young kid; this was to remain the case throughout the day.  Most of our fellow passengers exited the bus at the trailhead for Angel's Landing, and we were able to hike in relative solitude for quite some time.    

waiting for the shuttle bus into the canyon
at the trailhead
rough Indian paintbrush (Castilleja scabrida)
climbing the switchbacks toward Echo Canyon
Although significant elevation is gained in this section, perhaps half the total for the entire hike, it never feels particularly challenging.  The switchbacks keep the grade moderate, and the trail is hard-surfaced - it is essentially paved.  It is nothing like the muddy rocky trails found in the east.  

 

looking back

Echo Canyon provides a good break in the climbing.  Here the trail levels out and enters a narrow chasm with high colorful walls.  There is even a miniature slot canyon!  We paused to give Frankie a small snack, and just gawked at the splendor.  Sounds really do echo through the twisting space; we heard a flute and it was magical. 








After passing through Echo Canyon, the trail starts climbing again, but it has a different feel.  The main canyon is no longer visible and the red rocks transition to yellow and white.  This was our first taste of the eastern side of Zion, which we'd seen in the Park Service movie yesterday.  It is stunning!  The trail surface is similar, with many paved switchbacks.  However, it felt more challenging here because we were in the full sun.   

pointleaf manzanita (Arctostaphylos pungens)


serviceberry (Amelanchier sp. [alnifolia-utahensis complex])


sanddune wallflower (Erysimum capitatum)

When we got to the short section with the most exposure, Erwin went ahead.  He had decided he would be less anxious if he couldn't see us, and I readily agreed.  Anxiety can be contagious and I don't want Frankie to be scared for no reason.  There are definitely some drops offs -- but nothing to cause undue concern if proper caution is exercised.  Finally the trail pops up near the rim, and the climbing is done.  The remainder of the hike out to the point is mostly level.  The trail has a softer, sandy surface and passes through an interesting zone of scrubby oaks.  There are teaser views down the canyon.  It was very exciting!





Observation Point itself was quite crowded.  We waited to see the benchmark and snap a few photos, then moved away from the precipice to find a less crowded and shadier spot for lunch.  The views did not disappoint... what an amazing place! 





snow capped peaks in the distance
After a lengthy stay, we put our boots back on, took some more photos, and started the descent.  Because the trail surface is so level, hiking back out is not difficult, with the exception of the unrelenting sun.  There is precious little shade available on the return hike.











another break back in the shade of Echo Canyon




almost back - just a few switchbacks left
I had purchased a good sun hat for Frankie before the trip, so he was fine.  However, Erwin and I both got way too much sun, despite using sunscreen.  I deployed a big straw visor to shield my face somewhat, but found out later brushing my hair that my scalp got burnt.  Erwin had no protection and felt quite fried by the end of the hike.  This is quite unusual, as he is less susceptible to burning than me.  He was longing for a hat, but too macho to accept my offer to share the visor, haha.

Sun issues aside, this is an amazing hike!  Not as crowded as many other Zion trails, and spectacular views.  Highly recommended.  

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